Scotland: Edinburgh

On By JC ThrashIn Travel

Day One: Jetlag & Reunions

I can’t remember a time when Scotland wasn’t on the top of my list; I have always wanted to go. Even when studying abroad in London, I never made it up to Edinburgh; I was too poor to afford the cross-island train ride.

But now, it’s finally happened. The long-awaited Scottish voyage.

We flew into Edinburgh (via Philadelphia) and landed around 7:00am. We took a cab to the hotel; it was pretty pricey, but worth it for us, with our bags. There are direct coaches and trams that go to the city centre, but for our hotel location (near Holyrood palace), it would have been a pain. Our cab drive circled the Edinburgh Castle on three sides, and it’s absolutely breathtaking — the pictures do not do it justice, the way it sits up atop a cliff ominously surveying the city from above.

When we arrived at the hotel, our room wasn’t ready just yet. They guided us to the gym and spa area in the basement, which featured some changing rooms. After freshening up, we stored our luggage and headed back out.

Holyrood Park is just by our hotel, and it was a nice, relatively warm day, so we headed that way first. We didn’t have our premier gear, so we held off on the big hike up to Arthur’s Seat and instead traversed the park straight through the middle, which avoided most hills but was still beautiful.

Once through the park, we walked for a while along the perimeter; at the northwest side of the park, we crossed the street and headed towards a pub, the Holyrood 9A. The bartender boasted excellent burgers, but we weren’t quite ready for a full meal and just had two half-pints to sample some of the local beers.

From there, we headed up to the city centre and walked through the Old Town (specifically the Royal Mile), which was touristy and crowded, but lovely to see the old architecture. We listened to a young bagpiper for a moment and then proceeded up the Royal mile to the Museum of Scotland, where we planned to meet our friend.

Two of our closest friends from when we lived in Boston just moved to France (perks of a dual citizenship!). We have not seen them since they moved out there, and were ecstatic when they asked about meeting us in Edinburgh! Their flight landed at 12:30pm, and they planned to meet us at the museum. It was a lovely reunion!

Suddenly hungry, tired, bodies confused and jetlag setting in, we left the museum after exploring just one floor and headed to find a pub for a snack. (Note: the Museum of Scotland is highly rated and FREE. Our plan was to come back on an inclement weather day, but, oh darn, we didn’t have any of those!)

We also popped in to St. Giles Cathedral. Don’t crumble under the pressure to donate (like I did); or, if you spent a long time in there and appreciate the experience, donate on your way out. We thought the cathedral was just fine – but certainly worth popping in if you’re walking by it on the Royal Mile. They ask for a requested donation amount — but it is not required and the cathedral is in fact free to enter.

Our friend had made an early dinner reservation for 5pm, so after our Royal Mile explorations, we headed to The World’s End, a pub at the start of the Old Town. My wife ordered the fish and chips and I got the steak and ale pie, which was delicious.

The jetlagged ladies (our French friends were only one hour off, so this just references my wife and me!) headed to bed just after dinner in the hopes of catching up on lost sleep. (And indeed, I slept for 11 hours).

Day 2: Arthur’s Seat

Day 2 brought us back to Holyrood park; this time, to climb Arthur’s Seat, the tallest peak in the park (and in and around Edinburg). A 300-million-year extinct volcano, Arthur’s Seat brags a climb up to a naked rock cliff which 360-degree breathtaking views of the city.

We chose Arthur’s Seat for day 2 because it was projected to be the warmest, sunniest day. Not that we minded a hike in less-than-perfect weather, but we wanted the clear skies to maximize our views! In retrospect, everyone else had the same idea, so it was massively crowded. The hike isn’t very long, with an elevation gain of around 250 meters; translation: there is just not a lot of space to spread out. Next time, I’ll take the road less traveled by – which is a grueling hike up a manmade rock stairway, which seemed very lightly traveled when we had walked by the day prior. Once you climb the stair, you arrive to an open grassy area with a less populated, slightly lower peak to enjoy before deciding whether the climb the crowded main peak or move on.

As we neared the top, the path narrows into stairs that struggle to accommodate two-way traffic. My friends and I watched a family with a young children climb up an incredibly steep incline on a grassy slope that few were braving; “if that child can do it, then we can!” my friend said, to which I replied, “she is much lower the ground!!” We headed up that route nonetheless, and it was worth avoiding the crowds (for the time). The views at the top were amazing, but honestly? Not worth the crowds, as the views at the lower peak were also incredible, and you didn’t have to fight for space.

On our way back down on the southern edge of the park, we continued on south around the loch and a woodsy staircase to reach Sheep Heid Inn, one of the oldest pubs in Edinburgh. We shared some snacks while enjoying half-pints; the food was good and the service very friendly.

Since we had already hiked a ways, we decided to continue the trend and stroll onward to Craigmillar Castle.

It was a long walk, starting off on a narrow sidewalk on a narrow road – not super pleasant – but when we reached the Craigmillar neighborhood, we shifted to a shaded path a bit off the road that goes directly to the castle. As happens in Scotland, the skies opened up out of nowhere and rain began to shower on us; it was coming down rather hard, and we were only moderately prepared, so we reached the castle a bit cold and damp. Fortunately, the rain stopped and skies cleared for our castle exploration.

Craigmillar Castle, although admittedly off the beaten path of Edinburgh, was super neat. It was not particularly crowded (and we entered with our Explorer’s Pass*), and super fun to explore.

It was a big day with a significant number of steps, and we earned our dinner – Indian, at Dishoom. It’s a local chain with a few locations in London and across England, I believe, but well worth it – some of the best Indian food I’ve had.

Day 3: Day Trip!

For our daytrip, we boarded the train for a few stops up to Linlithgow. Our hope was to bike along the canal path, but finding places to rent bikes were limited, and mostly outside the town center. Instead, we strolled up to Linlithgow Palace (also included in the Explorer’s Pass). Like Craigmillar, Linlithgow is castle ruins, but a good deal larger than Craigmillar. You can use an audio guide (downloaded to your phone) which is included in admission, but lord, the narrator talked SO SLOWLY we couldn’t stomach it and instead relied on the signs to learn about the castle.

On the castle grounds is a beautiful view of the loch, which you can also enjoy from the various towers you are able to climb. Stairs throughout the palace take you to various levels and sublevels, and even after all the time we spent there, I’m certain I missed something.

For the afternoon, our friends headed off to a farm to look at some highland cows (“Hairy coos!”) while my wife and I hopped the train up to Stirling Castle (ALSO included in our Explorer’s Pass! We’re all about getting our money’s worth, and then some!) Stirling Castle – not ruins like the others – was massive; some of the castle is still in use, but you’re able to walk the grounds, ramparts (my favorite part), and view some palace rooms that are staged appropriate for the time. The walk up to the castle from the train station is not for the faint of heart, but the views were worth it.

On our return from Edinburgh, we took our bartender from day for his word and returned to Holyrood 9A. It’s a cozy spot, and the burger was quite good, indeed! We also tried haggis for the first time. It was tasty, but also breaded and deep-fried; is that cheating?

Day Four: Botanical Gardens & Water of Leith

Our perfect weather couldn’t last forever, and Sunday morning was CHILLY. Leaving the hotel in the morning, we decided to start at the Edinburgh Botanical Gardens; too far to walk and too inconvenient for public transit, we treated ourselves to a cab.

Despite the cold, the botanical gardens were absolutely gorgeous. Beautifully manicured, with much already in bloom, we spent two hours there are still only captured a fraction of the area.

Following the gardens, we stopped at a pub – The Stockbridge Tap – for a pint and some Scottish eggs before heading to the Sunday Stockbridge Market. Our friends explored some of the man antique and thrift stores while my wife and I feasted on some meat pastries at the market.

From Stockbridge Market, we strolled over to the Water of Leith walkway, following the river path up to Dean Village, an adorable neighborhood nestled around the river.

For dinner, we went to the Salisbury Arms in the southern part of Edinburgh for a traditional British Sunday Roast, which was delicious — a meal I could not have afforded when I was studying abroad in college! The portions were huge, so my wife and I shared one, which was plenty. We took the long walk home around the Holyrood Park to digest, wrapping up our day with a game of Spades in the lounge.

Day Five: all alone

… well, not really. Just that our French friends had to depart Edinburgh! My wife and I took the opportunity to bop around the city to capture all that we had missed in the previous four days. We started by hiking up to Calton Hill, which (and I know I’ve said this a few times) offered beautiful views of the city. From there, we braved Edinburgh Castle, despite fearing the crowds, besides it’s covered in the Explorer’s Pass! The grounds were indeed so crowded that we didn’t stick around for long (queue to get in, then queue to see each individual part of the castle), but it was neat to see, and worthwhile only because we had “free” entry with our explorer’s pass.

From our exit from the castle, we passed through the fancy area of Grassmarket. We popped in Cloisters Bar, which featured some specials, and shared fish and chips. The food was just fine, but the beer selection was vast and unique. The bartender allowed us to try a few options before making our selections, and we enjoyed some beers we hadn’t seen before, particularly cask pours that were smooth and flavorful – yum!

After our lunchtime snack, we moved into the Meadows – a large urban park alongside University of Edinburgh. The cherry blossoms were in bloom and lined most of the park paths on either side for a striking stroll. We walked the length of the park, ending at Dagda Bar, which was fine at best – honestly, it seemed a bit run down and the bartender sat at his laptop behind the bar giving zero shits about the job or his customers.

Our casual day somehow turned into the most walking we had done over the long weekend, even our Arthur’s Seat hiking day! Granted, we pretty much walked the extent of the city, starting with the climb up Calton Hill, but when we got back to our hotel, we crashed hard after packing up our bags.

On Day 6, we take a train to Inverness, which I’ll cover in my next post!

Notes:

What they don’t tell you about Edinburgh: THE HILLS. Yes, I knew Edinburgh was hilly. I did not know that it was a 3-dimensional city, like a real-life Minas Tirith. Everywhere you go involves streets with steep inclines and alleys with a massive staircase. So. Many. Stairs. A 5 minute walk alone can be a significant workout, and will always take you longer than you expect.

Explorer’s Pass: I didn’t know this was a thing until we arrived in Scotland, but it was well worth its value. The pass gives you free entry into many historical sites of Scotland, including most castles and cathedrals in the greater Edinburgh area, most notably, Edinburgh Castle and Stirling Castle. We also used it for: Linlithgow Palace, Craigmillar Castle, Uruqhart Castle, and Elgin Cathedral.

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Edinburgh Lez-Travel rating:

Young, hip and student-heavy of a population, Edinburgh was incredibly gay-friendly!

Jesuit Pilgrimage and the Game of Thrones: Barcelona Day-Trips

On By JC ThrashIn Travel

Day Five: Montserrat 

There are tons of different ways to explore Montserrat, with dozens of tour companies taking advantage of tourists to offer big “excursions” for big money. I’m sure many of these are wonderful for those who want to do tapas, and wineries, and distilleries, and big coach buses, but for me and my wife, we just wanted to view the basilica – and hike.

Montserrat

If I could do it again, I would have started at the first transport up the mountain, as my only grievance was that we didn’t have enough time to explore all that we wanted to see. We did pieces of a few trails, but didn’t have the time for the longer hikes.

Getting there:

Because we wanted the maximum amount of free time to explore and hike around, we opted out of one of those company excursions with all-inclusive activities and instead purchased the “Trans Montserrat Ticket” from Turisme de Barcelona Information Office at Plaça de Catalunya. It’s not something you can buy online and just show on your phone; you have to go in person. You can buy them in advance if you know when you’re going; we simply purchased the day-of; however, if we had known for sure in advance which day we planned to travel to Montserrat, we would have purchased and picked up our card in advance to save some time day-of. There is also a “TOT Montserrat card” which includes everything we purchased, plus a buffet lunch.

The card includes:

  • round-trip train fare (you don’t have to pick the time in advance). The train is basically a commuter rail, not a high-speed train, so be prepared to make plenty of stops.
  • round-trip train or cable car to Montserrat. You must choose at the time of purchase between the rack railway car or the cable car*
  • unlimited rides on the funiculars. There are 2 funiculars, which grant you convenient access to the multiple levels of the mountain. We took the one to the very top to hike!
  • Access to the cathedral and audiovisual space.

*We did the cable car, and I’m glad we did – the views were incredible and it was honestly pretty awesome. Some things to note though: 1) for those claustrophobic, they really pack you in like sardines; 2) I would not recommend for folks scared of heights; 3) the journey is quick, but know that it’s standing room only for those with limited accessibility; and, 4) even in the off-season – early December – on a weekday, the line was long. We waited probably 15-20 minutes to board our car. There are only 2 cars that continuously loop, so were I to do this in peak season, I’d probably opt towards the rack rail to avoid waiting in a 45-minute+ line.

Day Six: Game of Thrones?

It happened again. Sickness strikes abroad.

We had another slow morning with a light breakfast and sudafed before taking the high-speed rail to Girona.

The train was about 40 minutes. We grabbed a snack of an incredible, loaded salmon toast from a bar on a square and then followed a guide through the old town. The bartender was very friendly and patient; she really appreciated our efforts to try speaking Spanish. The absolute coolest part was the city walls that originally enclosed the town (now, of course, the town spreads within and beyond the walls). The walls and towers are open access, and offer incredible views of the city. 

Several scenes from Game of Thrones were filmed here as well, and those interested can pay for Game of Thrones walking tours to show you all of the spots. We did our tour self-guided, but still made the effort to visit those locations from the show.

View if Girona, Spain from atop the town walls.

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Lez-Travel Rating:

This is a bit trickier to rate since we didn’t have much interaction with others. I’d be inclined to be distrustful of Montserrat, with it’s Catholic affiliation. Girona, a smaller town, seemed fine – while we didn’t notice any significance of gay pride showing, we felt safe.

Barcelona

On By JC ThrashIn Travel

Day 1: the dangers of early check-in

Typically, in flights from Columbus, OH, we connect in Philadelphia when traveling to Europe. It’s a drab place (I know, I have spent a whole night here before – thanks U.S. Airways), but an American Airlines hub. My wife travels for work and has earned a depressingly high level of status and perks with American. 

This trip, I picked up some travel books from the library. I haven’t done this before, but always will from now on – they have the newish publications, it’s zero dollars, and why buy a travel book for just six days when you’re going to be stuck with it? Even if we return to Barcelona (I hope we do! It was awesome!), we would need the newer version. It also allowed us to compare notes. 

I’m getting ahead of myself. So, my wife’s perks landed us to the fanciest of fancy American lounges, our ticket earned in combination with our international tickets and my wife’s ultra-status. They greet us with a glass of champagne, which we carry amidst giggles to a bartop area by the windows. Not only do they have an open bar and full buffet, but also meals to order – all for free. Never has a six-hour layover been more fun. 

My wife tackled the Lonely Planet and I picked up the Fodor’s, and we started planning our trip – which we hadn’t done at all – besides booking tickets to la Sagrada Familia. After six hours of snacking, drinking, and planning, we made our way towards our red-eye flight, landing in Barcelona around 8:00am. We hailed a cab from the airport (very reasonable fare, particularly as uber and lyft are rare–and frowned upon) to our hotel. 

By a stroke of luck (and aforementioned wife’s status), we were able to check in at 9am. We headed to our room, freshened up, and then broke all the rules on adjusting to the time change. The second my head hit the pillow, feeling how incredibly and impossibly comfortable I felt, I said “uh oh” and fell immediately into a deep sleep. 

Our alarms went off 2 minutes later (hours, it was 2 hours), but our struggles to get up and ready caused us to miss our city walking tour. We had booked through one of the “free” companies, so we notified them and then planned our afternoon using our handy library guidebooks. 

We chose a self-guided tour around the gothic area, Barcelona’s old town. We purchased a 10-ride transit pass (no expiration) which worked well for us, since some days, we didn’t use transit at all, and used buses almost as often as the metro. We landed at Plaça de Catalunya and wandered around for a bit (it was heavily under construction) before moving into the Gothic area.

Had we been more prepared, we would have downloaded Rick Steves’ free audioguide for this neighborhood, but we followed his route in any case. We explored the area around the Catedral de Barcelona (we didn’t pay for entry), but enjoyed walking around the area and enjoying some of the history as shared by Rick Steves. There are free hours to enter the Cathedral, but – we hadn’t timed it just right. No matter – it was a gorgeous day and plenty enjoyable to view all of the narrows streets, plazas, and gothic architecture. 

We stopped at Bar del Pla, one of the few places that’s open during the pre-dinner time (most restaurants do not open for dinner until 7:30 or 8pm). It was crowded, but they made space for us after first trying to seat us by the toilets. We ordered wine (I believe I got the house red, which was low-cost and delicious) a few tapas – tomato bread, croquettes, and our first of many experiences with jamon iberico. 

After our pre-dinner snacks/ late lunch, we continued walking the neighborhood where each “street” is a tiny alley that all wind around like a maze. We eventually find what we’re looking for — the Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar. We expected to have to pay (listed as five euro), but the entry for us was free. 

Our selected destination for dinner didn’t open until 8pm, so we popped in to a cocktail bar on the same plaza: Cocktail Bar Mudanzas. The drinks were unique, colorful, and incredibly strong!

For dinner, we showed up just after 8pm, mere minutes after the restaurant opened, and it was already slammed: Cal Pep. The staff squeezed us in at the bartop. The restaurant has no menu, just a chalkboard list of the daily offerings, listed in Spanish. The server went very quickly through the options, and we agreed to too many things, not always knowing what we were signing up for – but it was all incredible.

Day Two: the Scam

I admit it. We were scammed (kinda). 

I’m ashamed.

While on our way home from a camping trip, our cousins who had just traveled to Barcelona messaged us saying, “OMG! You haven’t bought tickets for Sagrada Família yet?! You need to — NOW.” For the record, folks visiting in the off-season are probably just fine by purchasing tickets a few days or week in advance, but our cousins had traveled to Barcelona in July.

So, with our cell phones as our only devices, we quickly purchased tickets without doing due diligence. When we arrived at the basilica (note: they turned people away for arriving late, so you must arrive during your ticket window), we used our scammy tickets to enter (second note: the security of the basilica is more thorough than Spanish Border Control).

Once inside, we realized our tickets were sold third-party and the audio guide would not download on the free Sagrada Família Wi-Fi. We approached staff to request the visitor audio guides, but since our tickets were purchased third party (for double the price), we were not able to utilize the basilica’s audio guide.

Inside of Sagrada Familia

So – we still were able to enter, explore one of the towers, and view the masterpiece that is Sagrada Família, but not having access to an audio guide was a huge bummer. I take responsibility for this screw-up; we’re typically way more careful and have always noticed the websites that pay google to show up first in the search, mimicking and impersonating the legit websites — but still, beware the third-party sellers out there, that sell tickets to the basilica for twice or ten times the cost that the Sagrada Família actually charges, and with fewer resources and access. They make their website look as close to identical as the real thing as possible and purchase a domain as close as possible, like, SagradaFamília.org. If we hadn’t been in a rush, I’m confident we would have realized our error. And – at least we got to see it!

After the Sagrada Família, we wandered through the plaza (Plaça de la Sagrada Família) for a final, different view of the basilica. We popped into a bar that had just opened for a quick beer and bathroom break while we used the bar’s Wi-Fi to check out some options for a late lunch. We decided to get a bit away from the touristy area and walked about a mile to La Pepita. It was a hip bar with excellent tapas. 

To round out our afternoon, we walked up to Gaudi-designed mansion La Pedrera – Casa Milà. We purchased tickets at the door (note: you can save a few euros per person by purchasing in advance online). The tour includes an audio guide and headset. I would definitely recommend catching the sunset; the views from the roof were incredible.

Following la Pedrera, it was about time for dinner – already 7:30pm, but we were still the first people at the restaurant – a back-alley spot known for its paella. The service was friendly, but the paella was just fine, unfortunately, and the walk to get to the restaurant was, at best, uneasy, especially for two women. Drunk men watched the women’s every movement, and the restaurant was situated along a dark alley with a rank smell and belligerent humans. For those reasons, I’d steer clear of this restaurant. Sketchy alleys aside, this is Barcelona! We can’t stand for mediocre paella!

Day Three: BARCA

Day 3 welcomed my wife’s biggest dream: Barca futbol match. The match started early afternoon, and we had a slow morning before heading out from the hotel — too slow, really; we had planned to venture through the Jardines de pedralbes, but ran out of time. 

Our hotel breakfast was excellent, so we just wanted something light for lunch; we strolled into one of the small neighborhood bars near our hotel (we were walking distance from the football stadium): Bar Lucas. We just had some pan con tomate and croquetas. 

Spotify Camp Nou stadium has been under construction for a while, and we attended one of the first matches since it opened back up. It was still under construction in some areas, so we unfortunately were unable to do a full walk around the stadium concourse, but it was exciting to see their home stadium and experience the enthusiasm of the fan base (even for me, and I didn’t grow up on soccer like my wife did!).

After the match (Barca won!), we headed back to our hotel to watch the Ohio State v. Michigan futbol de America game (we just can’t help ourselves). Go Bucks!

Day Four: Castles and Gaudí

Sunday brought us from one corner of Barcelona to the other. We began our day with our ticketed entry at Park Guell, via the city bus. The city bus in Barcelona is an experience; locals are incredibly pushy with the transit, and to hell with the ethical understanding of “let people exit first before you enter.” I’d be waiting to exit at the next time right by the rear door, and be pushed out of the way for people trying to go first. We lived in Boston for seven years, so it’s nothing shocking to us, but… it’s there.

Anyway, we began exploring by following the path of Rick Steves (which we affectionately refer to as Ricky-Recommends). We climbed the steep hill to the cross (great views of the park and the city) and took the windy path back down to view more Gaudí architecture. 

I find Gaudí’s work to be quite cool – albeit odd – but Park Guell was a level of crowded, even in the off-season, that stressed me to the core. I wanted to venture off into the adjoining urban park to enjoy nature with fewer humans, but my wife was starting to get hungry and feared getting lost. So, we finished our exploration  – my favorites were the mosaic tiles on the ceiling and the stone columns that, if I remember right, was a driveway or parking area for the rich people’s carriages? – and headed out.

We climbed down the hill and walked about a mile to the metro, taking us back to the city center. Our afternoon plan was to explore Montjuïc Castle and the area; typically, you can take a Funicular (same fare as the metro) up the hill. Unfortunately, the funicular was closed during our visit, so we took the 150 bus. The bus was pleasant enough and offered a nice few of the Montjuïc area on our way up (take heed, those with motion sickness); the bus stops at the top of the hill, just below the castle.

On Sunday evening, the castle is free, so we passed through security and admissions; they handed us our free ticket and we entered the fortress area.

The castle walls offer an unparalleled view of the city (and the water) with a spectacular view of the sunset.

On our way back down the hill, we walked. A lot of the public park areas were under construction and closed off, but it was still a nice stroll with views of the water. 

For dinner, we had made reservations at Tiberi Bar, a cool Mediterranean vegetarian-forward restaurant (still plenty of meat options). We found Tiberi Bar by recommendation from Fodor’s (see, we don’t just follow Rick Steves). With some time before our reservation, we first stopped at Bar Seco for a glass of wine. Bar Seco is also highly recommended for its food, but we only had time a drink.

It was our best meal in Spain; I may drool a bit thinking of it for years to come. They rotate through new menus seasonally, so it may not matter to share what we ordered, but our experience makes us believe that customers of this restaurant can do no wrong.


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Barcelona Lez-Travel rating:

Three rainbows! We felt super comfortable being Out and Proud, and saw plenty of other queer couples during our adventures.

Big South Fork & Charit Creek Lodge

On By JC ThrashIn Bikes & Hikes, Dog Companion, Travel

I’ve written about Big South Fork in a previous post, so I won’t go into too much detail.

This year, we stayed for two nights in the Charit Creek Lodge. We rented the “Corn Crib,” the most loved space, judging by how hard it is to book (we booked nearly eight months in advance, a long weekend in November). Other spaces have screen porches and other outdoor seating, so I wasn’t as big of a fan as others in compared to the lodge rooms, but it was nice for the dog. The lodge rooms have an upstairs (separate access point, for staff), so our dog was very alarmed when strangers were walking around upstairs!

Our first night, we had only six other fellow guests, which offered a really nice, intimate setting. The second night, we were joined by a very large group of men – I believe a church group – and the dining hall was packed to the brim with maybe 30-40 guests; fortunately, the Charit Creek staff sat us with our friends from the previous night, two brothers who were also from Ohio.

As always, the food was absolutely incredible. Unlike last year, however, I felt that there never was quite enough food… at least, not for folks hiking six or more miles each day.

The trails:

Twin Arches Loop – I recommend going counterclockwise. You start with a nice relaxing stroll through the woods before reaching the steep incline. If you started early enough, you’ll get through the touristy section (people drive to just do the half-mile loop with the arches that’s adjacent to the parking lot) before it gets busy, then take the long, meandering, 2.5-3mi portion back down through the woods, with more unique arches and neat nature to view and take in.

Charit overlook – this is a horse trail, which is really nice because the trail is nice and wide, and not very technical (minimal roots and rocks in the path). It’s incredibly steep for the first half, but due to the width, you can walk several humans (and dogs) abreast and take your time with it. It follows a river before turning into a less steep woodsy trail before you get to the overlook at the end. You’ll see the horse parking and then the trail narrows to reach the lookout.

On our way out, we took the horse trail, which was… a mistake. We thought it’d be easier with our packs than the technical trail through the woods (which we loved on the way in), but the shorter exit resulted in a way steeper incline. Hard to believe a horse or carriage or even motor vehicle could climb that level of incline! Don’t do it!

Pacific Northwest

On By JC ThrashIn Bikes & Hikes, Travel

My brother-in-law lives in Washington state, about halfway between Seattle and Vancouver. What a bummer to have to fly out there to visit him.

It’s not even fair how gorgeous it is out there.

Our first full day, a Thursday, my wife and I started to explore while her brother and his girlfriend were at work. At their recommendation, we selected the trail called Oyster Dome, on Blanchard Mountain.

We drove up the first part of the mountain via a long, winding unpaved road. There’s a way to avoid this (adds significant elevation, with no facilities and minimal parking), but we simply navigated to the main parking area (Samish Overlook parking), which bypasses the initial ascent on foot, offering breathtaking views from the start (and toilets!). From the main parking area, it’s still about a 5-mile hike, which was sufficient for us for our first day anyway. The other trailhead is off Chuckanut Drive (must cross state highway to begin hike).

View of the Samish Bay, near the Samish Overlook parking area
View of the Samish Bay, near the Samish Overlook parking area.

We loved this hiking trail. The parking lot is quite large, signaling how busy the area can get, but we started mid-morning on a weekday and fortunately avoided crowds; we only crossed paths with a handful of people, and shared the summit with four others.

The trail begins steep, tackling a bit of the 1000-ft elevation gain, before leveling out through the cedar and fir forest. The trail crosses several creeks. Even while away from the views, the sounds and smells of the forests are incredible.

After enjoying the more level trail for a while, it spikes upward for a significant incline the final ~ half mile. As you continue up the switchback, the trail narrows as well, and becomes a bit more technical. Reaching the top is well worth it! You’re rewarded with a nice, wide rock face to sit and rest while enjoying the breathtaking views. The people of the pacific northwest are so friendly, too! When they discovered we were visiting from Ohio, they offered up other trails to check out, and their favorite meal spots nearby, as well.

We already had a plan for dinner that night, though, and after heading back down the mountain, we drove to downtown Mt. Vernon to meet our brother and his partner.

View from the top of Oyster Dome
View from the top of Oyster Dome.

Day 2

Another work day for our family, my wife and I drove to Larrabee State Park. Offering over a dozen trails to explore, we bopped around, quite sore from Oyster Dome. We drove first to the top of the park for the views, and then hiked a bit of the Ridge Trail before heading back down to the bottom of the mountain for the Clayton Beach trail.

View from Cyrus Gates Overlook

The Clayton Beach trail wound down the hill onto the beach. It’s a short trail overall; fairly steep, but a much more gradual slope than by the overlook. There are some rocky areas near the beach that we climbed up to relax and enjoy the views.

View of the beach in Larrabee State Park
Clayton Beach, Larrabee State Park

Once we wrapped up our time in the state park, we rewarded ourselves with a beer – we first tried “The Oyster Bar,” just off Chuckanut Drive, not realizing that it was fine dining (we were covered in sweat and sand and in our hiking gear, yikes!). We snuck away and instead headed to “Chuckanut Manor” — which sounds fancier but is less so. They had a good happy hour, and we ordered a couple of pints and a snack to share. The food was excellent and view from the patio beautiful.

Following our hike reward, we headed back to our family’s house for dinner. Our brother has gotten into duck hunting, and grilled some duck for us to try. My wife and I had stopped by the cheese store in downtown Mt. Vernon to complement our appetizers with some wine and cheese. Skagit Valley Larder was a great experience – we were able to sample the cheese prior to purchasing it, and they offered some recommendations that would pair well with the cheese (and the duck!)

Day Three

On Saturday, the four of us piled into the truck with the dogs and headed out to Ross Lake National Recreation Area. Just adjacent to North Cascades National Park, we were able to enjoy similarly amazing views … but also bring the dogs (no dogs in national parks, boo). We did the Thunder Knob trail, which was breathtaking but painfully crowded.

If I were to go again, I’d likely select a trail that’s typically less crowded.

On our final day, my wife and I went to Deception Pass before heading back to the Seattle Airport for our red-eye flight home. At Deception Pass, we hiked the Goose Rock Summit trail – which can be either a shorter, steeper out-and-back, or a full loop trail. We did the latter, hiking the steep climb on the way up to grant us the slowly meandering path back down to the parking area.

___________________________________

PNW Lez-Travel rating:

The Pacific Northwest is an interesting place when it comes to gay travel. There are lesbians everywhere… but you’re in such a rural area, that you meet some closeminded idiots, as well, and certainly see a lot of Trump flags. Based on our experience, these are not the same folks we encounter on the trails or town centers. PNW wins 3 rainbows.

Coopers Rock State Forest, WV

On By JC ThrashIn Bikes & Hikes, Dog Companion, Travel

Long overdue for our first camping trip of the season, we hit the road, heading west to a new state park in West Virginia (new to us, I mean!). My wife grew up camping in the Upper Peninsula, and I grew up camping in the higher altitudes of the Smoky Mountains, so camping in extreme heat is a no-go for both of us. Although June is typically mild in Ohio, this weekend was predicted to break into the mid-90s, so I researched as many parks and campgrounds that I could find in the mountains, landing at last on Coopers Rock. It’s about as high of elevation as I could find in under 4 hours from Columbus, but it was just enough to to drop the temperature about 10 degrees.

The campground has two camping circles – one fixed with electric and water for RV camping, and a second circle for tents only. The tent area is smaller, but the spots are spacious, shaded and semi-private. My first complaint is that most of the firepits are right along the road. Due to the campground being a small circle, we didn’t have to deal with much motor traffic, but it did feel less cozy to not be nestled under the trees of the campsite.

The tent loop circles a single bathhouse, with trails through the woods to reach it. They had running water and real flush toilets, not too rustic for camping-newbies, but a bit of a hike to the toilets for those who want closer proximity.

My second complaint was that the camp store closes at 6pm, which is right around the time we pulled in. They allow after-hours self check-in, but the closed camp store meant no firewood for us during our first night. This was a bummer, but the scattered showers led my wife and I to grab some illegal beers (no alcohol at the campground, whoops, didn’t realize that at first) and lounge in our tailgating tent to chat and stay dry.

I have aired my grievances – now, to the good stuff. Because the campground consists of a single loop, the campsites on the outside lead right into the forest. This offers a more private experience, but also allowed us to see some wildlife! When we first pulled in, two deer were chilling at our campsite, and we saw nearly a dozen more throughout the weekend. We also saw a deer feeding its fawn!

The hiking was the best part. Near the camp store (the “trading post”) is a brief, accessible trail to a large and gorgeous overlook. You can also hike the “underlook,” which is a trail going below the lookout. It’s very short, but steep with some scrambling bits at the end. I would highly recommend this trail to see more of the forest and to feel like you’ve really earned your reward (the view!).

Another trail to an overlook is Raven’s Rock. The trailhead is a bit confusing; on the first day, after parking, we began hiking the trail by the sign board and maps, but after a while all the blazes disappeared. There are still trails to explore, but not the main hike to Raven’s Rock. We passed a couple other confused hikers, so we know it wasn’t entirely user error!

The next day, we did find the correct trailhead, just a bit further down the road, towards the park’s cabins. The area had gotten a significant amount of rain in the week leading up to our trip, so to say we hiked through a creek would have been more accurate than on a trail. We definitely saw more hikers on this trail than any other, but it was still calm without a ton of traffic, which was nice. The trail (river, in our case) crawls steadily downhill for the first mile before reaching a steep incline at the end towards the lookout. The view was worth it!

Overall, perhaps my favorite part of this area was the proximity of all of the trails. While there is parking at all of the trailheads, you can walk to most of them from your campsite, limiting the need for your car while camping. We did this to reach my favorite hike, the Rock City trail.

Rock city started with a nice, gradual incline through the forest. After about a half mile, you reach a fork in the road and a picnic shelter. You can do a sharp left to take the Rattlesnake trail, or continue on past the shelter for Rock City. We had actually planned on the more moderate hike of the rattlesnake trail (hopefully free of any poisonous snakes), but upon witnessing what the rock city trail looked like, we continued that way. The trail passes through rock walls on either side, with rhododendrons creating a gorgeous canopy above you.

On our way back, it began pouring, and so we picked up our pace and took shelter in the covered picnic area, JUST in time. When the rain lightened up, we hit the trail again, back “home” to our campsite.

Back at our site, the rain continued to roll through. It’d pour for a few minutes, then the sun would come out, then out of nowhere, it poured again. Our ability to cook dinner was beginning to look a little bleak, so we hopped into the car, drove down the mountain, and went to a lakeside restaurant. We felt a bit like we were cheating, but the draft beer was fresh, the food was good, and the post-rainstorm lake breeze was lovely.

The rain continued off and on for the rest of the night, but we fortunately were able to get our fire hot enough to keep rebuilding it after each shower. Overall, we had an amazing time at Coopers Rock, and would definitely return to this campsite again in the future.

Ireland: In and Around Dublin

On By JC ThrashIn Travel

For our first afternoon in Dublin, we booked a free tour by Generation Tours and saw the top sights of Dublin, which helped formulate our plan for the week. We got dinner at the Oval bar, recommended by our tour guide. It was pretty good, but not the best meal we’d had, and a bit pricier than we thought it deserved. 

From there, we headed to a pub recommended by the musician who played at our wedding!, and as promised, there was excellent music – The Cobblestone. It was crowded, and we could only fit in the back of the pub at first, which made it hard to hear the musicians, but every 20 minutes or so, someone would depart, and we’d sneak a bit closer. 

Dublin Day Two: Howth

Howth is, if I dare say it, almost as incredible as the Cliffs of Moher, but minus the crowds. A little suburb on a peninsula off of Dublin, you can take the commuter train (the DART) there and back for 5€. There are four different loop trails to look at, and you can pick up the maps to each from the TI (about a 3-minute walk from the train station). We chose the second-longest, about 10km. We had planned to try the longest, but at only 2 additional km, it was way hillier, and most importantly, bypassed the Summitt (the mid-hike pub). 

The hike takes you up a narrow sidewalk at first alongside gated, fancy houses and condos, but once you get to the top, the actual trail begins. There are several viewpoint detours, and the trail is well marked with the four different options (which all run together for the first half of the hike). 

The views are absolutely incredible, and the first half of the trail takes you alongside the water (but way above it) for breathtaking scenery. As you near the lighthouse, the trails split, and those following the 8 or 10 km options are taken through town right past the pub. We didn’t eat, so I cannot comment on the food, but the pub had a great atmosphere, plenty of indoor and outdoor seating, and delicious beer options. 

From there we followed the red markers, which took us through another hiking area that is popular with the locals and their dogs, so we had to pay closer attention to the trail markers to avoid getting lost. At the top of one of the hills, we had a beautiful view of Dublin, before hiking back down into Howth. We grabbed a seafood lunch at Crabby Jo’s, which had great smoked salmon and a delicious seafood chowder. 

After lunch, we walked over to the Howth Castle, which now houses an automobile museum and cooking school (an interesting combination), but it was neat to walk around the grounds and see it. There are some paths near the castle and neighboring golf course, which are untraveled enough to make it seem like we were trespassing (we aren’t positive that we weren’t…).

That evening, we went to highly-recommended Darkey Kelly’s near the Temple Bar District. It was a bit disappointing, unfortunately; the food was OK, but overpriced, and in lieu of traditional Irish music, a band played Wagon Wheel (telling the audience that the song was called “Rock me Mama”).

On Wednesday, we took the Irish bus down to Trim to see the oldest Norman Castle in Ireland. We had planned to buy our tickets at the bus station with the promise of ticket machines that allow credit cards, but mysteriously all the machines were down, so we were forced to use the station ATM, which charged a fee in addition to an absurd exchange rate. (Until that point, we had gotten our cash at Bank ATMs only, which do not charge fees. Unfortunately, we just barely didn’t have enough euros for the bus fare!).

From the top of the castle.

The return ticket was 16€. We accidentally got off the bus one stop too soon, but it worked out as we took a long walk to the castle along the River Boyne. The River Walk was lovely, passing ruins along the way, and many locals with their dogs. Markers along the path tell the story of the history of the town. I would highly recommend the walk; not only is the path along the river lovely, but there are other medieval ruins to explore along the way.

We arrived at the castle behind a school group of about 50 kids, so we let them get a head start and took a quick Guinness break (it was almost noon). For lunch, we headed to a Rick Steve’s recommended (what we’ve begun affectionately referring to as Ricky’s Recs): Rosemary Bistro. My wife loved her burger, but unfortunately, the highly recommended tuna sandwich was really just a grilled cheese with a couple tuna sprinkles. (I should have taken a picture… when I say “tuna sprinkles,” I mean it literally.)

We headed back to Trim Castle and booked the next tour, which takes place every hour. While we waited, we explored the grounds. Though we had uncharacteristically sunny weather so far this week, our day in Trim was cloudy, but the impending drizzle held off for us to enjoy the outdoors.

The guide brought us through each level of the castle, sharing a bit about the history of the castle, what each of the rooms were used for. After about 45 minutes, we reached the top, awarding us with sensational views of the surrounding area. Our guide allowed us a few minutes to wander and enjoy the tower-top views before descending back down the narrow and steep windy staircase to exit back onto the grounds.

With about an hour until the next bus back to Dublin, we sought out a pub to relax with a pint. We discovered the hard way that before the height of tourist season and midweek, little was open, but we did stop into Sally’s for a pint of Guinness. We met other American travelers who had just begun their tour of Ireland following two weeks in Scotland, and enjoyed the artwork set into the heads of our Guinness draughts.

Day Four: Dublin Day

I had gone to bed feeling pretty beat and under the weather, so my wife allowed me to sleep in. I woke up about 8 minutes before the end of breakfast, which I take very seriously, so I threw on some clothes and ran downstairs to get my traditional Irish fare for one last time. 

Feeling better after some beans, eggs and a croissant, but still tired, we adapted our Dublin Day to hit the minimum. We had wanted to tour Kilmainham Gaol. Ricky’s Recs had warned us to reserve in advance during the high season, but since it was only mid-April, I figured we’d luck out. Unfortunately, we did not! 

Instead, we headed to the National History Museum, exploring the Iveagh Gardens and St. Stephen’s Green along the way. The National History Museum is free, and has enough to entertain folks for hours; we, however, focused on the main galleries for an hour, before heading out for some lunch.

We headed back to a pub featuring live music that my wife had noted earlier. It had a lovely patio, but as the cold rainy weather finally arrived for us, we ate and drank indoors (plus, the music was inside!) We ordered a toastie with some tomato soup and enjoyed the music. Even at a mostly empty pub at two o’clock in the afternoon on a Thursday – the musicians were quite talented. Here, we met more Americans; the wife was quite friendly, but the husband drowned out the music with his unending talk of golf courses, so we kindly took our leave and headed out.

We attempted the Brazen Head next; it was our Dublin tourist day, after all, but we balked at the food prices and instead settled for a pint on the beer garden. The indoor area was quite crowded, and though it was cold outside, the atmosphere was a bit calmer. From there we headed for our final Dublin meal, ordered much of the same that we would have eaten at the Brazen Head… but for half the price.

Then back to the hotel to pack up and roll out!

Dublin Lez-Travel rating:

Rainbows and gay bars are all over Dublin. We felt safe, and unlike Galway-area, not the only ones.

Big South Fork Nat’l Rec Area

On By JC ThrashIn Bikes & Hikes, Dog Companion, Travel

As a kid, I’d go camping most years at Big South Fork, a national recreational area in Tennessee. Within the park, accessible only by foot (or horse), is Charit Creek Lodge. They provide the room, bed (and bedding!), breakfast and dinner. The meals are served family-style, offering the chance to meet people from all over the country. At our table, there were several Tennesseans, but also folks from South Carolina, New York, and Michigan.

The main lodge with the dining hall has two private cabin rooms on either side, with a shared back porch. I will admit that I initially balked at the price of one night stay for two humans and one dog, but when I realized that the food is, like, absolutely delicious, and far exceeded my expectations (I was picturing basic “camp food”), the cost seemed to be much more reasonable. And if you’re staying multiple nights, you also get a sack lunch! Our dinner consisted of meatloaf, a cheesy pasta dish with baked beans, vegetable casserole, and a fresh salad with nuts and goat cheese. Our breakfast was a delicious crustless quiche, sausage, and nut muffins.

Upon arriving, the first trail we tried was the Slave Falls Trail, but, just as Ohio is experiencing with this long drought, the waterfall was, well, nonexistent, and the creek a mere trickle. The woodsy stroll was lovely though, although we were a bit alarmed early-on in the hike at our first bear sighting! We’d slow down and make noise at every sharp turn to not catch a bear by surprise.

From there, we drove from the Slave Falls trailhead to the Twin Arches trailhead to eat a picnic lunch. We then hoisted on our packs, hoping to not fall off an arch with the weight of our overnight stay on our back.

The arches were incredible! Of course, the pictures don’t do it justice, but it was wild that, growing up in Tennessee, I never hiked that trail to see them. 

The rest of the trail was steep down into the valley where the Lodge sits, but a nice, enjoyable and woodsy path. Most tourists hike the small, 1-mi arches loop (the larger loop is over four miles), and so we only passed two other people as we hiked about 2 mi of the full loop to arrive at the Lodge.

After checking in, we dropped off our belongings in our massive room with one queen bed and four single bunks. They provide lanterns, as well as a cooler to put in any food or other yummy-smelling thing to the bear neighbors. We went to shower next – it is a shared facility for all Lodge guests, but the individual stalls were large, spacious, the room was warm, and the water was hot – definitely the best “camp” shower experience I have had. Note: towels not provided!

I’ve already shared what they served for dinner (while drooling just thinking about it). They also offer beer and wine for purchase, so my wife and I tied up the dog with a bone and sat in large rocking chairs with our beers, enjoying the gorgeous Tennessee fall weather.

In the morning, full up on quiche and sack lunch stored in our cabin cooler, we hiked up the Charit Overlook Trail. It’s a very wide horse trail, and though steep, it wasn’t rocky. All three of us could walk side by side. It was a hike I wish we had taken more time with, because the views from the top were lovely, but we hastened back down the mountain to check out by 11. 

We packed up and gathered our belongings from the cabin and returned to the rocking chairs to eat our sack lunch.

On our way out, we did the western part of the Twin Arches Loop, about 2.5mi. It climbed out of the valley much more gradually than the eastern part of the loop, and once we were up on the ridge, the views, rock formations, and parts of the arches all were incredible to enjoy.

To make the most of our second day in the park, we booked a hotel in Richmond, KY, to avoid driving the 4.5 hours home in one go. We drove the two hours to our hotel, picked up a pizza. We were way too pooped to enjoy the stop and went right to the hotel, but we’ve been to Richmond before; it’s a cool college with great BBQ and beer. Dogs were allowed at Dreaming Creek Brewery, and they typically have a food truck on site as well. Smitty’s BBQ was fast-food meets cafeteria-style restaurant barbecue (reminds me of Buddys BBQ back home in Knoxville); we got tons of food for so cheap, and all of the everything was tasty.

Pickerington Ponds & Walnut Woods

On By JC ThrashIn Bikes & Hikes, Columbus, OH, Dog Companion

Pickerington Ponds

After two days of hunkering down from the hurricane (who knew those could be such a big threat in landlocked Ohio!), the dog and I were going stir-crazy. The winds had died down but the rain continued steadily; despite the weather, I hit the road and headed to Pickerington Ponds metro park. 

My dog, who usually has no problem with rain or being wet, kept giving me this look as if to say, “really? a two-mile hike in this?”

I started on the Blacklick Trail – the 20-mile paved bike path – to reach the trailhead of the Burning Lake loop, the only dog-friendly hike at Pickerington Ponds. Similar to other dog-friendly paths at the Columbus metro parks, it’s a big loop through grassy meadows, with a very small woodsy stretch at the southern part of the loop.

On the way back, I noticed a trail connector to the Arrowhead Trail, a slightly shorter walk back to the parking lot and way to bypass the paved portion of the bike path. Ignoring the “no pets” sign (honestly, it was pouring, and I was the only one desperate enough to be walking in those conditions!). We enjoyed the Arrowhead much more; a wide path through the woods, it shielded us from the worst of the rainfall and had a much more quiet, peaceful vibe (and better sniffs for the dog).

Overall, not a great option for dog-parents, what with only one trail to use (assuming you want to follow the rules, don’t take my example). Additionally, as it was pouring, I did not take any pictures!

Okay, so… I also confess to breaking the rules at Three Creeks Metro Park. Our favorite spot for biking, we’ve also brought the dog for a walk along the paved trail. I was surprised to see that, even after the hurricane, the pond is still dried up from our summer (and now autumn) drought.

When I reached the Confluence Trail, a narrow path through the woods and along the creek, marked clearly with a “no pets” sign, I decided to give it a whirl. We had never explored this path as we always have either our bikes or the dog. I was hesitant to break the rules, but I didn’t pass a single person for the mile hike, and really enjoyed being in the woods. Note: this area was heavily infested with ticks.

Walnut Woods

Now to one of my favorites: Walnut Woods Metro Park. Every single trail is dog-friendly, and most trails are paved, as well, for those preferring a more accessible stroll. The best is the “Tall Pines” area of the park – specifically, the Sweetgum Trail. It’s a 2.6mi figure-8 loop trail, with an additional unpaved cut-through to one of the largest trees I’ve ever seen in Ohio. This half-mile option is lovely: typically quieter and less trafficked, you certainly feel more in the woods. And the smell of that pine? It makes me think of the smell of home every time.

We love the Sweetgum Trail so much, we haven’t even explored some of the other trails at the park, but we’ll report back once we have Tonks’ stamp of approval.

Chestnut Ridge & Three Creeks Metro Parks

On By JC ThrashIn Bikes & Hikes, Dog Companion

Chestnut Ridge, sadly, is among those that just doesn’t want your fur-kids around much. With only one dog-friendly hike, there is much of the park we were unable to explore.

Milkweed Trail is a meager half-mile loop trail that is dog friendly. It is mostly a grassy meadow path, and the flowers were indeed gorgeous this time of year (August). It cuts into the woods for just a moment, with one small hill that is just steep enough to fire up some muscles in your quads (but not much). It’s a nice trail, and even though it is the only dog-friendly option, we might come back if it were a bit longer, but unfortunately just isn’t worth the drive for a .5 mi of walking.

We DID take advantage, however, to being a bit of ways down 33 to stop at Outerbelt Brewery, which brews some of our favorite local beers. The taproom is huge, with lots of space for dogs (and human kids!) to enjoy the space while not getting in the way of the drinking adults. Their food menu is small but decent; we really enjoyed our sandwich and sweet potato fries. They have dozens of beers on tap, and their Oktoberfest is among the best.

On to Three Creeks Metro Park. Much improved for doggie visitors over Chestnut Ridge, it still leaves much to be desired for those wanting more of a woodsy adventure. Despite having a large and nice dog park, the only dog-friendly trails are short, paved loops around the ponds and the Blacklick Creek Greenway. For those who live on the southside, it’s a convenient option to get some steps and sniffs in, but I wouldn’t recommend traveling to it.

As a cyclist, however, the park is a convenient entry point to the Blacklick Creek Greenway, my absolute favorite bike path in Columbus. It’s beautiful, shaded, smoothly paved, and not wildly crowded, especially once you get outside the park. There is also access to the 24-mi Alum Creek Greenway.