Long overdue for our first camping trip of the season, we hit the road, heading west to a new state park in West Virginia (new to us, I mean!). My wife grew up camping in the Upper Peninsula, and I grew up camping in the higher altitudes of the Smoky Mountains, so camping in extreme heat is a no-go for both of us. Although June is typically mild in Ohio, this weekend was predicted to break into the mid-90s, so I researched as many parks and campgrounds that I could find in the mountains, landing at last on Coopers Rock. It’s about as high of elevation as I could find in under 4 hours from Columbus, but it was just enough to to drop the temperature about 10 degrees.
The campground has two camping circles – one fixed with electric and water for RV camping, and a second circle for tents only. The tent area is smaller, but the spots are spacious, shaded and semi-private. My first complaint is that most of the firepits are right along the road. Due to the campground being a small circle, we didn’t have to deal with much motor traffic, but it did feel less cozy to not be nestled under the trees of the campsite.
The tent loop circles a single bathhouse, with trails through the woods to reach it. They had running water and real flush toilets, not too rustic for camping-newbies, but a bit of a hike to the toilets for those who want closer proximity.
My second complaint was that the camp store closes at 6pm, which is right around the time we pulled in. They allow after-hours self check-in, but the closed camp store meant no firewood for us during our first night. This was a bummer, but the scattered showers led my wife and I to grab some illegal beers (no alcohol at the campground, whoops, didn’t realize that at first) and lounge in our tailgating tent to chat and stay dry.
I have aired my grievances – now, to the good stuff. Because the campground consists of a single loop, the campsites on the outside lead right into the forest. This offers a more private experience, but also allowed us to see some wildlife! When we first pulled in, two deer were chilling at our campsite, and we saw nearly a dozen more throughout the weekend. We also saw a deer feeding its fawn!
The hiking was the best part. Near the camp store (the “trading post”) is a brief, accessible trail to a large and gorgeous overlook. You can also hike the “underlook,” which is a trail going below the lookout. It’s very short, but steep with some scrambling bits at the end. I would highly recommend this trail to see more of the forest and to feel like you’ve really earned your reward (the view!).
Another trail to an overlook is Raven’s Rock. The trailhead is a bit confusing; on the first day, after parking, we began hiking the trail by the sign board and maps, but after a while all the blazes disappeared. There are still trails to explore, but not the main hike to Raven’s Rock. We passed a couple other confused hikers, so we know it wasn’t entirely user error!
The next day, we did find the correct trailhead, just a bit further down the road, towards the park’s cabins. The area had gotten a significant amount of rain in the week leading up to our trip, so to say we hiked through a creek would have been more accurate than on a trail. We definitely saw more hikers on this trail than any other, but it was still calm without a ton of traffic, which was nice. The trail (river, in our case) crawls steadily downhill for the first mile before reaching a steep incline at the end towards the lookout. The view was worth it!
Overall, perhaps my favorite part of this area was the proximity of all of the trails. While there is parking at all of the trailheads, you can walk to most of them from your campsite, limiting the need for your car while camping. We did this to reach my favorite hike, the Rock City trail.
Rock city started with a nice, gradual incline through the forest. After about a half mile, you reach a fork in the road and a picnic shelter. You can do a sharp left to take the Rattlesnake trail, or continue on past the shelter for Rock City. We had actually planned on the more moderate hike of the rattlesnake trail (hopefully free of any poisonous snakes), but upon witnessing what the rock city trail looked like, we continued that way. The trail passes through rock walls on either side, with rhododendrons creating a gorgeous canopy above you.
On our way back, it began pouring, and so we picked up our pace and took shelter in the covered picnic area, JUST in time. When the rain lightened up, we hit the trail again, back “home” to our campsite.
Back at our site, the rain continued to roll through. It’d pour for a few minutes, then the sun would come out, then out of nowhere, it poured again. Our ability to cook dinner was beginning to look a little bleak, so we hopped into the car, drove down the mountain, and went to a lakeside restaurant. We felt a bit like we were cheating, but the draft beer was fresh, the food was good, and the post-rainstorm lake breeze was lovely.
The rain continued off and on for the rest of the night, but we fortunately were able to get our fire hot enough to keep rebuilding it after each shower. Overall, we had an amazing time at Coopers Rock, and would definitely return to this campsite again in the future.
For our first afternoon in Dublin, we booked a free tour by Generation Tours and saw the top sights of Dublin, which helped formulate our plan for the week. We got dinner at the Oval bar, recommended by our tour guide. It was pretty good, but not the best meal we’d had, and a bit pricier than we thought it deserved.
From there, we headed to a pub recommended by the musician who played at our wedding!, and as promised, there was excellent music – The Cobblestone. It was crowded, and we could only fit in the back of the pub at first, which made it hard to hear the musicians, but every 20 minutes or so, someone would depart, and we’d sneak a bit closer.
Dublin Day Two: Howth
Howth is, if I dare say it, almost as incredible as the Cliffs of Moher, but minus the crowds. A little suburb on a peninsula off of Dublin, you can take the commuter train (the DART) there and back for 5€. There are four different loop trails to look at, and you can pick up the maps to each from the TI (about a 3-minute walk from the train station). We chose the second-longest, about 10km. We had planned to try the longest, but at only 2 additional km, it was way hillier, and most importantly, bypassed the Summitt (the mid-hike pub).
The hike takes you up a narrow sidewalk at first alongside gated, fancy houses and condos, but once you get to the top, the actual trail begins. There are several viewpoint detours, and the trail is well marked with the four different options (which all run together for the first half of the hike).
The views are absolutely incredible, and the first half of the trail takes you alongside the water (but way above it) for breathtaking scenery. As you near the lighthouse, the trails split, and those following the 8 or 10 km options are taken through town right past the pub. We didn’t eat, so I cannot comment on the food, but the pub had a great atmosphere, plenty of indoor and outdoor seating, and delicious beer options.
From there we followed the red markers, which took us through another hiking area that is popular with the locals and their dogs, so we had to pay closer attention to the trail markers to avoid getting lost. At the top of one of the hills, we had a beautiful view of Dublin, before hiking back down into Howth. We grabbed a seafood lunch at Crabby Jo’s, which had great smoked salmon and a delicious seafood chowder.
After lunch, we walked over to the Howth Castle, which now houses an automobile museum and cooking school (an interesting combination), but it was neat to walk around the grounds and see it. There are some paths near the castle and neighboring golf course, which are untraveled enough to make it seem like we were trespassing (we aren’t positive that we weren’t…).
That evening, we went to highly-recommended Darkey Kelly’s near the Temple Bar District. It was a bit disappointing, unfortunately; the food was OK, but overpriced, and in lieu of traditional Irish music, a band played Wagon Wheel (telling the audience that the song was called “Rock me Mama”).
On Wednesday, we took the Irish bus down to Trim to see the oldest Norman Castle in Ireland. We had planned to buy our tickets at the bus station with the promise of ticket machines that allow credit cards, but mysteriously all the machines were down, so we were forced to use the station ATM, which charged a fee in addition to an absurd exchange rate. (Until that point, we had gotten our cash at Bank ATMs only, which do not charge fees. Unfortunately, we just barely didn’t have enough euros for the bus fare!).
From the top of the castle.
The return ticket was 16€. We accidentally got off the bus one stop too soon, but it worked out as we took a long walk to the castle along the River Boyne. The River Walk was lovely, passing ruins along the way, and many locals with their dogs. Markers along the path tell the story of the history of the town. I would highly recommend the walk; not only is the path along the river lovely, but there are other medieval ruins to explore along the way.
We arrived at the castle behind a school group of about 50 kids, so we let them get a head start and took a quick Guinness break (it was almost noon). For lunch, we headed to a Rick Steve’s recommended (what we’ve begun affectionately referring to as Ricky’s Recs): Rosemary Bistro. My wife loved her burger, but unfortunately, the highly recommended tuna sandwich was really just a grilled cheese with a couple tuna sprinkles. (I should have taken a picture… when I say “tuna sprinkles,” I mean it literally.)
We headed back to Trim Castle and booked the next tour, which takes place every hour. While we waited, we explored the grounds. Though we had uncharacteristically sunny weather so far this week, our day in Trim was cloudy, but the impending drizzle held off for us to enjoy the outdoors.
The guide brought us through each level of the castle, sharing a bit about the history of the castle, what each of the rooms were used for. After about 45 minutes, we reached the top, awarding us with sensational views of the surrounding area. Our guide allowed us a few minutes to wander and enjoy the tower-top views before descending back down the narrow and steep windy staircase to exit back onto the grounds.
With about an hour until the next bus back to Dublin, we sought out a pub to relax with a pint. We discovered the hard way that before the height of tourist season and midweek, little was open, but we did stop into Sally’s for a pint of Guinness. We met other American travelers who had just begun their tour of Ireland following two weeks in Scotland, and enjoyed the artwork set into the heads of our Guinness draughts.
Day Four: Dublin Day
I had gone to bed feeling pretty beat and under the weather, so my wife allowed me to sleep in. I woke up about 8 minutes before the end of breakfast, which I take very seriously, so I threw on some clothes and ran downstairs to get my traditional Irish fare for one last time.
Feeling better after some beans, eggs and a croissant, but still tired, we adapted our Dublin Day to hit the minimum. We had wanted to tour Kilmainham Gaol. Ricky’s Recs had warned us to reserve in advance during the high season, but since it was only mid-April, I figured we’d luck out. Unfortunately, we did not!
Instead, we headed to the National History Museum, exploring the Iveagh Gardens and St. Stephen’s Green along the way. The National History Museum is free, and has enough to entertain folks for hours; we, however, focused on the main galleries for an hour, before heading out for some lunch.
We headed back to a pub featuring live music that my wife had noted earlier. It had a lovely patio, but as the cold rainy weather finally arrived for us, we ate and drank indoors (plus, the music was inside!) We ordered a toastie with some tomato soup and enjoyed the music. Even at a mostly empty pub at two o’clock in the afternoon on a Thursday – the musicians were quite talented. Here, we met more Americans; the wife was quite friendly, but the husband drowned out the music with his unending talk of golf courses, so we kindly took our leave and headed out.
We attempted the Brazen Head next; it was our Dublin tourist day, after all, but we balked at the food prices and instead settled for a pint on the beer garden. The indoor area was quite crowded, and though it was cold outside, the atmosphere was a bit calmer. From there we headed for our final Dublin meal, ordered much of the same that we would have eaten at the Brazen Head… but for half the price.
Then back to the hotel to pack up and roll out!
Dublin Lez-Travel rating:
Rainbows and gay bars are all over Dublin. We felt safe, and unlike Galway-area, not the only ones.
What better reason to travel to the South of France than the marriage of two good friends? We booked our travel into Paris, with the high speed train to the region of Provence. The wedding took place in a small town in the countryside of Provence.
The day of the wedding, we had some time to explore before returning to get ready for the festivities. We headed to Les-Baux-de-Provence, a small village in the Alpilles mountains, situated beneath the ruins of a large medieval fortress, Chateau des Baux. We paid to park at the bottom of the hill and began the trek up the mountain.
When we made it to the top, we stopped to catch our breath before roaming along the edge of the cliffs to enjoy the magnificent view. In fact, we enjoyed the view for too long that we had to abandon our plans to pay to enter and explore the chateau, and instead began our trek back down the hill to head out.
Our next task was to drive back down the winding roads to St-Remy-de-Provence. Wednesday is market day in St. Remy, a massive collection of vendors that stretches through a significant area of the town. The bride had requested we purchase some lunch snacks for her – and did the same for ourselves. Fortunately, our friend was with us who spoke conversational French (my wife and I – far from it) and helped us purchase a diverse selection of cheese, meats, and bread.
At a cost of only 40€ (also about $40 at the time), we purchased enough cheese and meat to feed the entire bridal party and ourselves (four of us, about 10-12 people overall). And the quality – far from anything I have enjoyed in the States.
Despite the notion that the French hate Americans (honestly, due to my interaction with American tourists, I don’t blame them), that was not our experience in the southern countryside. The vendors were incredibly friendly to us, and were thrilled that one of our party spoke French. The vendors would correct small errors with a smile, and thank us. They even let us sample every cheese before we made the purchase! And I mean – decent hunks of sample cheese, and one for each of us.
Following the wedding festivities, my wife and I and our two friends journeyed on to Cassis, along the coast in the southern part of the region. My wife and I had rented a car, as Cassis and the town of the wedding were not easily accessible by train (due to the mountains, the train station in Cassis is 2 miles from the town).
[*A note on driving in France, as we made a couple of mistakes: 1) the speed limits aren’t suggestions like in the States. If you go even 2 km/hr over the speed limit, you could get a ticket. And you won’t get pulled over; there are speed violation cameras that will automatically send a bill to you – a whopping 135€ – if you aren’t careful! and 2) it’s illegal to turn right on red. Did we turn right at a red light? Yes. Did we get pulled over immediately? Yes. We were pulled out of the train station/rental car parking lot… fortunately, the police officer only shamed us a bit for not knowing the rules (fair) and did not give us a ticket.]
Wanting to check out La Route de Crêtes, a remarkable 30-minute drive along the seaside cliffs linked Cassis to La Ciotat, my wife and I drove first to La Ciotat, and explored a botanical garden, Parc du Mugel. A reasonably priced pay-lot is nearby for parking, then a 10-minute walk down a steep hill and past a beach will bring you to the park entrance.
The park was beautiful, and entry is free. It had lovely views of bay, and vegetation I did not expect to see in France (bamboo!? Palm trees!?). At the top of the hill, you’ll also get a beautiful view of the Calanques.
Once we got our fill of the park (hardly… I could have wandered there all day), we headed back to the car to start La Route de Crêtes. It definitely lived up to expectations. Though a somewhat scary drive at times (a VERY narrow, winding road), the views were breathtaking, and there were plenty of places to pull over and take in the views from outside the car. This one was our favorite lookout spot.
Once we arrived in Cassis, we found our hotel with some effort. An amazing thing about these towns in France is that they close off smaller streets and alleys during market days or dinner time, so that restaurants can use those areas for outdoor seating. But – the closed roads did make it tricky to get to our hotel! We ended up parking up the hill and dragging out luggage to our hotel, just off the city center. We stayed at a new Best Western; the rooms were very small and simple, but the price was reasonable and location was perfect.
We met our friends at a Rick Steves’ recommendation: Divino, a small and reasonably priced wine bar. The bartender was very friendly, and handed us some free charcuterie and olives to enjoy with our wine. He had three house selections (one white, rose, and red, all local) already selected and open, 7€ each, so you could select something without too much pressure and need to struggle through a French menu.
The next morning, we once again enjoyed market day (Fridays in Cassis). Though not as expansive as St Remy, the market still had much to offer, and we purchased cheese and bread to enjoy on our Calanque hike.
The Calanques: calanques are narrow valleys with sea inlets, surrounded by cliffs. Near Cassis, there are three notable Calanques: Port-Miou, Port-Pin, and d’En-Vau.
Port-Miou is a thirty minute walk from the Cassis city center, and it is a climb. You walk up from the port and through the wealthier part of town, so don’t forget to turn around and enjoy the view as you go (you may need to catch your breath anyway!). At the edge of town, you hike down a bit to reach Port-Miou.
View from in between Port-Miou and Port-Pin
A large sign for hikers show the other paths to the next two calanques. One route is steep and rocky, the other travels around – longer, but more gradual and more accessible. Even in the off-season (mid-October), the trail was quite crowded, so if you go in summer, start early!
We made it to Calanque Port-Pin in another twenty minutes from Port-Miou. The views were spectacular, and the small peddle beach beautiful. We got a later start than intended, and knowing it was another hour to Calanque d’En-Vau (each way), we bailed on seeing what is said to be the most beautiful of the three (next time!), and headed back. Exhausted from the hike and heat, we were thrilled to discover an offer from our hotel: since it was new, they offered each guest a free 1-hr private use of their spa. Fully recovered, we met our friends at a wine bar, La Maison de Jo et Gaby. We had intended to follow another Rick Steves recommendation, La Chai Cassidain, but sadly it no longer existed and had been replaced, in the same location. Nevertheless, it was delightful; we grabbed a small table in the alley and the bartender handed us a small menu with that day’s options for wine by the glass. The bartender understood English but spoke only French, taking time to help us with the pronunciations. He refused to pour my wife’s glass until she was able to pronounce the name of the wine correctly!
For our final destination, we headed to Nîmes, stopping first at Pont du Gard, a massive, 30-mile aqueduct designed by the Romans to provide fresh drinking water to Nîmes. In fact, it provided nine million gallons per day.
We had to return the rental car that afternoon and only had an hour available to explore Pont du Gard, but if we could do it again we’d allow 3-4. There are tours available and plenty of walking trails to get better views of the aqueduct. You can also rent kayaks to view the Roman sight from the Gardon River.
In Nîmes, we had a casual first night, picking up some pizza and heading to our airbnb to watch the Tennessee v. Alabama football game (Go Vols!). The next morning, we headed out to enjoy a full day of touring the city. Rick Steves mapped out a full day’s tour for Nîmes, complete with recommendations on where to eat.
The day started with the Roman Arena. We purchased the culture pass there, which provided us entry into all the roman monuments and the museum. The arena, much like the Colosseum in Rome, was pretty incredible to see firsthand. The climb to the top provided amazing views of the entire city as well. The audio-guide, though showcasing some over-enthusiastic voice-acting, was still quite informative.
From there, we walked across the street to the Roman World Museum. The museum was interesting, displaying thousands of Roman artifacts in the three-level, bright building. It’s worth a see if you have the time, but if you’re short on time, I’d recommend focusing on the Roman monuments.
The restaurant Rick Steves recommended was no more, so we hit up another place in the recommended square: Place du Marché. A note on eating in France – it takes a WHILE. Though the food is always incredible, meals are long, social events, even when you’re trying to simply grab a quick snack and coffee and then head out to sightsee (as we were hoping to do in Nîmes!). And if you’re hungry between 3-7pm, you’ll have a hard time finding food. Most restaurants serving dinner do not even open until 7:00 or 7:30pm.
From there, we continued the Rick Steves walking tour, heading to Maison Carrée. Dated back to AD4, the Maison Carrée is a stunning temple that’s stood the test of time, being consistently utilized for a variety of purposes since the Roman Empire. From there, we headed to the Fountain Garden, a lovely park (free entry) and the Temple of Diana, which is within. Finally, we walked over the Castellum, a small site on a residential street which is the end of the 30-mile aqueduct from Pont du Gard. And how about this: based on the water available, the lower holes serviced the wells of the neighborhoods. The higher holes – so, only when water was sufficiently available – serviced the homes of the wealthy. How’s that for equity!?
After our walking tour, we grabbed a pint (we had been drinking so much wine, as is customary, that we had really missed our beer!). We sat at a table outside, casually taking in our view: the massive, 2,000 year old arena. How the locals could get used to that is beyond me!
After our casual pint, we went around the corner to a bar with dozens of beer on tap, including many unique Belgians (which we looooove). At this bar, you could pour however much you want, so if you don’t want to be dragging yourself home after too much Begian tripel. And small pours means you get to try more!
To wrap up the day, we headed back to our airbnb to pack up and rest, needing to catch the 5am train back to the Paris airport in the morning.
Lez-Travel Rating for Cassis:
I felt a little out of place in Cassis, but it wasn’t because of my queerness. It was a huge tourist spot, and though winding down for the season, was still thriving with tourism. Perhaps it was more my socioeconomic status than my queerness, though the costs weren’t extreme, the town felt… uppity? I would go back for the nature and beauty that surrounds Cassis more than the town itself.
Lez-Travel Rating for Nîmes:
While we didn’t experience or see much LGBTQ culture (though in fairness, we didn’t seek it out), we wandered the city hand-in-hand without fear of harassment or hostile looks. Some establishments had the Pride flag hanging, including where we got our post-walk beers by the Arena.
Resources:
For our travel plans, we used primarily Rick Steves Provence & the French Riviera. We bought a used, older edition for cheap, (which I’m sure is why some of his recommendations had since ceased to exist). My favorite part about the Rick Steves book for this trip was him outlining a day-long walking tour in Nîmes. It saved us from planning out and estimating how much time each location would take, and we just followed his guidance and it was perfect!
Finally – after several years together in New England- we made it up to Acadia National Park. We camped at Mount Desert Island Campground, a private and slightly pricey (but well worth it) campground in Acadia. We had a hike-in campsite – which proved challenging to carry our belongings up the hill through the woods, with a dog, but the privacy and the views were well worth the effort.
Initially, we had made this reservation for the summer, then it was cancelled due to covid, then rebooked – and finally, rescheduled again, as by that point we had adopted our dog, but as dogs are only allowed at this campground during off-peak months. So – September of 2021 – we made it.
A short hike through the woods from our campsite brought us to the “Gathering Place.” Normally when camping, we like our slow mornings and make our own coffee and breakfast, but the Gathering Place had delicious, fresh pastries – something different each morning – and coffee. The prices were reasonable, and like a hotel, they’d add the cost of everything to your “tab,” by campsite number, to pay alongside your reservation total upon checkout. Now that’s some fancy camping.
In the summer, shuttles service both Bar Harbor and many of the popular trails throughout the national park, but during our visit in the off-season (post-summer but pre-fall foliage), we drove where we wished and had no issues with parking. Note: you do need to purchase a pass, which allows you to park wherever in the park. You can do this online in advance, or at the ranger stations in the park.
Our hiking adventures were fun and flexible in Acadia. With the small peaks, most hikes were quick, and we could bounce around and do a couple each day, stopping for excellent seafood around the many restaurants in Bar Harbor especially, but also Northeast and Southwest Harbors. In fact, we’d recommend the latter two areas – the food was just as good, prices were cheaper, and we never had to wait more than a couple minutes for a table. Bar Harbor is definitely worth spending at least one evening, though! The one night we attempted to dine in Bar Harbor had its struggles (definitely plan ahead and make reservations!). We ended up on the patio of a Irish pub that had good beer options and decent food.
For day one, after our hike, we hit up a bar for lunch and to watch Ohio State and Tennessee football games. Unfortunately, both of our teams lost in their final drives, but we made great friends and had a lovely time with tourists and local alike.
You can’t go wrong on any hike in Acadia. We chose Kebo Mountain, Gorham Mountain, Jordan Pond Trail, Flying Mountain, and others I failed to note. All were not too challenging and rewarded us with beautiful views. Jordan Pond is an easy, but quite long, hike around the lake, and we enjoyed that when our knees were tired! Jordan Cafe we missed out on – they shortened hours post-summer and only are open for lunch.
Beehive is a favorite, but not dog-friendly (lots of climbing, ladders, cliffs, etc!)
On our second day, we headed to the west side to Nor’Easter Pound and Market (Northeast Harbor). They have a huge outdoor patio that is dog friendly, and the food was great!
Have you ever seen a happier dog?
On the third day, after Flying Mountain Trail, as we were already on the west side of Mount Desert Island (Southwest Harbor), we headed to a restaurant called the Upper Deck. It was not dog-friendly, but our dog was exhausted from the hike, and the weather was cool, so she was happier to nap in the car and we were able to keep an eye on her from this casual, bright marina restaurant.
Resources:
To plan our hikes, we visited the Park Visitor Center. The line was quite long (so I hesitate to think what’d it be like in peak season), but it moved fairly quickly. There, we were able to tell the ranger what we were looking for and get some advice on the best moderate-difficulty and dog-friendly hikes. The ranger gave us a map and circled all the hikes we had discussed, which was very helpful!
Lez-Travel Rating:
Three rainbows for Bar Harbor and Acadia. Hopefully it’s fair to speak of the stereotype of my own people: a lot of gay women love dogs, and love hiking. We felt like we were in good company on the hikes and around town. No funny looks, and we saw plenty of other queer folk, among locals and tourists alike.
Sometimes while traveling, one can experience a simple delight that can transform the experience.
While we had a delightful and problem-free time in Vienna as traveling wives, we took a longer bike ride to the outskirts of the city. This, in my experience, means ‘tone down the gay and be chill.’ 1
We are about to cut over from the bike lane to the off-road path along the river, when we noticed a cafe called Prindl Cafe. We immediately gravitate towards it, as “Prindle Pond” was the name of the venue of our wedding the previous week. (Prindle Pond is a camp in central Massachusetts).
Of course, we go inside. My mind is full of toning down the gay and chilling, but my wife, bubbling and outgoing and desiring to befriend everyone, goes right up to the bartender and tries to explain how we got married at a camp with the same name as his cafe.
He grows quiet and has a stern expression; he does not smile at the coincidence of the name and does not congratulate us. I grab the elbow of my wife’s sleeve and prepare to take a step backwards.
As fate would have it, the man has no issue with gay marriage, but does not speak English. We try to explain in horribly broken German (though – I am still uneasy), but fortunately his English-speaking daughter comes to our rescue and translates.
Immediately, his face brightens. He claps his hands together. He runs to the pastry display and grabs us two croissants, two chocolate croissants, and a delicious apple something (which provided us a wonderful pre-airport snack the next day). He does not stop beaming the entire time we drink our beers. We stayed too long that we did not make it to the island before dark, but it was all so worth it. We had not felt uncomfortable in Vienna, but this was the peak of comfort, acceptance, and even joy from someone met on our travels.
Though this was a delightful interaction and a lovely cafe/pub, I am sad to share that I was nervous about someone’s reaction toward my relationship and my marriage. This is something I have dealt with the most in my own cities and American travel (that is, more than in Europe), but how disappointing that I almost turned away from sharing my story with a kind and gentle-hearted man, who did not flinch, double-take or have any reaction other than absolute delight at our story, just because I did not know how he might react.
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I lived in Columbus, OH for three years. It was a very open city, I was in a very accepting and progressive graduate program. I came out while living in Columbus. But half a step outside the I-270 loop, the gay-hating Christians appeared in full shaming force. (Note: the emphasis is on the geographical area, and I will point out that the Christian communities inside the city were, in my experience, kind and open and loving towards the Columbus LGBT community... in fact, issues inside the city stemmed primarily from yo-pro-bros asking to see us make out… but that’s another novel).
Traveling can be a difficult passion for those who have a demanding and/or low-paying job (speaking from my own experience working in the nonprofit/education field). It was important for my wife and me to travel for our honeymoon, something we had not done yet together due to post-graduate schooling, long-distance, and a wealth of other factors circling around finances and, well, being gay.
Our first “vacation” together was after four years, a gift to ourselves when my wife completed her PhD, purchased on significant discount from Groupon. Well, the resort was mediocre at best, but we enjoyed the beach and the sunshine, that is, until we suffered drastically from food poisoning on the third day.
But I digress. This complex budget is where I started…
I like planning, though our actual activities varied significantly from our plans! In fact, we spent about $500 LESS than this initial budget.
It might be surprising, but this was step one. I included everything we were interested in doing, so it could be a part of our wedding budget, and scaled back from there. I researched day trips that were reasonable, I calculated from the local currency to the dollar, I even looked up average cost of meals so I could determine how many days we could “eat fancy.” To decide where to go, we researched countries of interest and looked at the cost to fly there and average cost of accommodations. Central Europe was our focus, and flying in to Prague and out of Vienna was the most reasonable, and, according to our research, among the most gay-friendly.
Note: In Prague, we didn’t see many lesbian couples, but we always felt safe and not out-of-place, especially in the Vinohrady area. Only once did someone do a double-take at us, but it was at the Charles Bridge and it was a man in a University of Alabama hoodie. In Vienna, gay and lesbian folks were everywhere! I’ll go more in depth in other posts, but definitely a space we felt not only safe, but… a part of the norm. More so than in Boston!
My tips:
Stay in an Airbnb – take note that some have cancellation policies and some don’t.
Use public transit/ City bikes
Stay away from touristy areas for meals
Travel off-season
Many tourist destinations have free or discounted days or times (for example Prague Castle)
Following a painfully long layover (saves money!), we landed in Prague on Monday afternoon. One thing we agreed to splurge on – taxi service from the airport. Our Uber was not much, and saved us time and headache trying to get from the airport. Typically I’d swear by public transit, and I’d recommend this video to see how.
We arrived in time to check in to our airbnb. In searching for our airbnb, we were pretty flexible on the location because we knew we planned to visit a different part of the city each day. We researched primarily safety and cost, and actually, lucked out with a large studio apartment in the Old City, where we were close to a few major tram lines and could walk to the city center.
Besides the airbnb, our biggest money-saver was THE WEATHER. This may seem unfair, because obviously there is nothing one can do to plan around weather until it’s happening. As you can see on my ridiculous budget spreadsheet, we planned for many museums and attractions. In Prague, there is so much to do outdoors that is free. Our favorite was the Vyšehrad (Prague’s “other castle”). We toured some caverns for a couple bucks each but the grounds and rest of the castle was free. There are a couple restaurants where we enjoyed a cheap beer outdoors. We spent the entire afternoon wandering around, and spent maybe $5 (yes, that includes the beers).
The second biggest money-saver was… WE LOVED PRAGUE AND VIENNA. Seriously. There are dozens of awesome day trips in a 90 minute radius, and we planned to do 1 or 2, but there was so much to do in Prague and we loved every day so much, we had no desire to leave the city. If we go back, I have this list to refer to, but 5.5 days in Prague was not even enough. Once we leave the city-center, there are multiple other neighborhoods each with a distinguished and unique character. And I would recommend the same. Don’t spend all your money trying to cram the entire country into a few days, and spending that much more time on trains and buses. Guided day trips are expensive. Pick a spot and stick to it, well enough to get to know it. The most money we spent in Vienna was the day it rained (we went to museums) but avoiding the day trips was actually our best financial decision.
There are always free guided tours. One company I have used often is Sandeman’s New Europe tours, but other companies do guided tours for free as well. Yes it’s “free,” but please please please, always tip your tour guide.
In Vienna, we stayed in Wieden, which according to our research was not the most gay-friendly area, but we found it to be very inclusive. It was a quiet but hip neighborhood with lots of young folks, and major bike lines into the center of the city. The cost of our meals and airbnb was definitely much more than Prague, but still significantly less than Boston and other major US cities. The most money we spent on dining was US$75, including tip, tax, two entrées and three alcoholic beverages each. This was our one big “fancy” meal, I mean, we were not trying to be frugal, and we left tipsy, full, and happy on one of the best meals of our life. (In Boston, $75 would get you two beers and two burgers.)
The same meal in a touristy area of Vienna, however, could have been double that. So, my recommendation in that respect is to avoid dining in the city center. Grab a beer and snack if you’d like, but save the dinners for other neighborhoods – you’ll get a more authentic experience that way, anyway!
As most vendors prefer cash payment, we typically used cash during our stay. The ATMs of banks do not charge ATM withdrawal fees – so keep that in mind, as that is a cost that can add up quickly! Be sure to take note of your own bank, too, if it has international fees.
I wrote above that we spent much less than we budgeted. Again, this is primarily due to our outdoor activities in place of admission to museums and other major attractions. Flights were $680 each (round trip); airbnb was $85/night in Vienna and $75/night in Prague (that includes ALL costs: base cost, cleaning fee, Airbnb service fee, and tax); meals, attractions, Ubers, beers, wine, public transit, EVERYTHING ELSE totaled $900. That’s $33 per person per day in Prague. It’s $52 per person per day in Vienna.
I have always liked Austria, though I couldn’t tell you why exactly, as this was my first trip to Vienna. In college, I visited Salzburg while interning abroad in London (10/10 would recommend Salzburg to a friend, but this post will of course focus on Vienna).
So when our train pulled into Vienna from Prague, we quickly headed to our Airbnb to check in then explore our neighborhood, staying local our first evening.
Our first full day, we wanted to check out the vineyards in the hills overlooking Vienna. We started by taking a city bus (38A) to the top of the mountain – Kahlenberg – a cheap and direct route to witness beautiful views of the city. It’s a windy road; if you get motion sickness, be warned, and grab a spot near the front! There is both a fancy restaurant and café here at the top, and the option to take the same bus back into the city, but what I’d recommend is taking a hike.
It’s about two miles from Kahlenberg to Grinzing. Grinzing is a neighborhood of Vienna and is the heart of Vienna’s wine scene. You can reward yourself (as we did) following the 2 mile hike with a visit to a Grinzing restaurant or Heuriger (wine tavern).
Some of the smaller Heurigen have limited hours, and we passed many of them during our hike down the mountain. They spread dozens of picnic tables out across their patios or grassy areas, but unfortunately for us, many are only open on weekends outside of summer. So we settled for one in the area of Grinzing that had weekday hours.
We started our hike a bit later in the day than we should have done, and as the sun began to set the woods got a little dark. We didn’t have cell service, but fortunately, everything is well marked and the very moment we began to worry, a sign pointed us in the direction of Grinzing. We took that last bit along the road to have light, but not before capturing this gorgeous picture of the sun setting over the vineyards.
On our second day, we rented the city bikes. You will need to register an account on the first day, which we did a week membership for a whopping 1€. When you pick up the bike, the first hour is free. From there, it’s only 1€ per hour.
Vienna is a biker’s dream. With mostly protected and/or off-road bike lanes, you are wildly free from worrying about get hit by a car. You do want to look out for pedestrians, as, especially in the city center, many tourists are confused and walk in the bike lane instead of the sidewalk reserved for pedestrians… I could go onto a rant about it not being that hard, signs for bikers vs. pedestrians is pretty universal and do not require proficiency of German language, but – I’ll just leave it at that.
When our free hour was up, we docked out bikes and found this cute English pub that doubled as a library bookstore. This is what we had been hoping the “book bar” place in Prague would look and feel like, and this pub was comfortable and delightful.
While in the city center, we also indulged in the notorious Austrian cake, the sacher-torte, a chocolate cake layered with apricot preserves. Accompanied, of course, with some Viennese wine.
At the recommendation of Rick Steves, we headed to Trzésniewski, famous for its open-faced finger sandwiches. It lived up to the hype! With each one being just a couple of bites, and only 1€, we were able to try plenty of flavors. I’d recommend getting at least one that sounds a little wild – you may love it! And don’t forget to order a pfiff: a pfiff of beer is 0.2L or, about 6oz. Just enough to wash down your lunch! (But of course you can always get more! The beer is light and refreshing!)
On Day 3, we headed out to Schonbrunn Palace, but it was a beautiful day, so we didn’t pay for a tour inside. Instead, we explore the grounds, which are expansive – and free! We wandered for about 2 hours, but could have spent a whole day out here. How they manipulated the vines to create a canopy… it was wild. It was an autumn wonderland.
On on fourth full day, we picked up the Vienna city bikes again and explored the Danube trail. We biked only to the edge of the city and back, but for those who want a bigger biking experience you can go all the way to Germany, or to Bratislava, and onward! In fact, we had initially planned on doing a day-trip to Bratislava, but we loved Vienna so much, we couldn’t justify using one of our four days for a day-trip.
Resources:
Many of the places we went were recommendation of Rick Steves, particularly restaurants we went to. His stuff is a great starting point, and we use it to map out recommendations that are close in proximity to maximize our time.
Vienna Lez-Travel rating:
Vienna was a delight, and a place my wife and I always felt safe. Pride flags flew in many places, and we were far from alone, both in the touristy areas and otherwise.
On the morning of our first full day in Prague, we shake off our jet lag and hustle by foot to the city center to meet up with our tour guide. Sandeman’s New Europe tours take place in many cities across Europe and are completely free. The tour lasts three hours and, in my experience, the tour guides are friendly, knowledgeable, and engaging.
We missed the start of the tour, but after running up to another guide, she was able to point us in the right direction for us to catch up. The tour took us through major landmarks of the Old City: the Astronomical Clock and the Old Towne Square; Church of Our Lady Before Tyn; view of Prague Castle; the old Jewish Quarter and Jewish Cemetery and more. Prague has a fascinating history, the the guide covers the Bohemian history, Austro-Hungarian Empire, Nazi occupation and WWII, the Velvet Revolution and fall of communism and Soviet influence. The tour was incredibly interesting, and a great introduction to both the history of Prague and beautiful sites around the City. A great day one activity!
Petřín Gardens
The area of Petrin Hill is basically a massive park full of gardens. You’ve got the Seminary Garden, the Rose Garden, Kinksy Garden, and more. An outdoorsy nature-lover could spend a whole day wandering here (and we about did). To top it off, there is the Strahov Monastery and BREWERY. Beautiful park, and I also get to drink delicious beer outside? Am I in Heaven?
After enjoying your beer, you can also walk around the grounds and inside of Strahov Monastery, which is also pretty incredible. You’ll have to snag one of the handouts to read about the artwork and displays in English, as the signs in side are in Czech.
In addition to enjoying the nature throughout these many gardens, you’ll also be heading up a steep hillside, so don’t forget to look around to get the occasional stunning view of the whole city (and wear comfy shoes).
I couldn’t choose just one picture of this area, so… here are several.
Speaking of the beautiful outdoors and beer, this brings me to Letna Park and the beer garden. Overlooking the river and the city, this outdoor beer garden is lively with tourists and locals alike. The whole park is worth enjoying, too; you’ll see other tourists but mostly locals with their dogs.
View from Letenský Beer Garden
Prague Castle
In the evenings, admission into the Prague Castle grounds is discounted, and definitely the way to go. For my wife and I though, we spent most of our time exploring the Royal Gardens. There are tram routes, but if you want to walk to the castle, prepare to get a good workout and enjoy some spectacular views! Here is one from the walk up to the castle.
View of the City from the walk up to Prague Castle
Better than Prague Castle is Vyšehrad, Prague’s “other” castle.
Vyšehrad has large grounds that are lovely to explore, especially in the fall. If you luck out with good weather like we did, you may spent all day in the area! From the top of the fortress wall, we enjoyed breathtaking views of the city, and it is totally free to explore the grounds.
We did pay a small fee to explore the hidden passageways and underground corridors, complete with a huge underground hall with monuments (how did they get those in there?!) – I believe it was about $3 per person, and the tour lasted around 45 minutes. Pretty cool to see, as this fortress dates back to the 10th century.
View from Vyšehrad
a little beer break at a café on the Vyšehrad grounds
The Food
One of Prague’s signature dishes, Svíčková was the most incredible meal… one which I probably had, in some version, nearly each day. The vegetable cream sauce was always a little different, and the quality of the beef and bread dumplings (knedlíky) varied slightly, but from the large, crowded restaurants to the small, dark pubs- it was always damn delicious. The creamy vegetable sauce was always the best part, and as I’m writing this I’m drooling and determined to find some in the States as soon as possible.
Prague Lez-Travel Rating:
As I wrote in “Color of Prague”: Two rainbows. Though, our experience did vary based on location we were in. We did a beer crawl in the Vinohrady neighborhood, a younger, hip, and not too touristy area, which probably would have earned three rainbows. In general, we’ll go with two. The only funny looks we got were, I believe, from other tourists (of course from the guy in the Bama hoodie), but we didn’t see much example of gay pride or gay culture.
The day of the Vinohrady beer crawl, we slept in, got a late breakfast and espresso, and hopped aboard the tram to head to Prague’s neighborhood: Vinohrady.
It was a quick ride on the tram to get a few neighborhoods east. Though previously in a more touristy part of the city, we found ourselves surrounded by young Czech people in a vibrant town square.
Our first stop was the Prague Beer Museum. Perhaps a bit of a tourist spot (first time we paid more than two USD for a beer!), but had 30+ Czech (or elsewhere) beers on draft. Here, we experienced more of a variety than anywhere else (if you read ‘Color of Prague’: you definitely couldn’t walk in and say “two beers please” without a lot of clarifying questions).
Hoping to spend Memorial Day weekend in Provincetown, MA, we combined our love for outdoors with a desire to save money and booked a campsite at Dune’s Edge campground.
It’s not ideal… it’s very chilly the first night and the campground does not allow campfires due to fire risk in the dry, windy pine forest. What is camping without a campfire?
Campsite: the beginning
But, the visit is to enjoy time in the town during a weekend celebrating young gay women in addition to enjoying nature, so we throw on as many layers as we can find and bike into town.
We lock up and head to JD’s, because, for some reason, sitting outside seems desirable to us in the 34-degree weather (fortunately, they do have warmers). A friend had given me the inside-scoop that one can order Saki sushi from JD’s for cheaper than at Saki!
From our spot on the porch we can see others walking the streets along the main strip of the town. I’m disappointed how few lesbian couples I am seeing, and hoping those numbers were to increase throughout the weekend (they do).
By the time we leave it is wildly frigid. We don our multiple layers and light jackets and bike back to the campsite, shivering.
Campsite: completed
Last time we camped, it stormed overnight. We both woke up to a crack and a thud – but as we soon realized that whatever tree or tree branch snapped did not crush us, we rolled over and went back to sleep.
In the morning, we woke up and pulled on our shoes and unzipped the tent and saw how alarmingly close the massive tree branch was to our tent – about two or three feet from where our heads rest.
So when the thunder and lightning begin at Dune’s Edge in Ptown, this thunderstorm-loving couple got a little more nervous than usual. Fortunately, Dune’s Edge has much smaller trees, so we believed if a branch broke, we would survive its impact.
The lightning, this time, was what was alarming, and the cracks of thunder so loud I was sure no one could possibly be sleeping in the campground. As I had learned as a child, I started counting the seconds between the flash of light and crack of thunder, telling myself we would run to the car if it got much closer.
I asked my wife “are we safe?” and after a somewhat uncomfortable length of hesitation she said yes, she thought we were safe, if the storm didn’t come closer. Well, we did survive the storm, and woke up to a bright and sunny day with a significant raise in temperature, a pleasant 60-degree cape day.
We spent most of our mealtimes at the campsite, grilling steak and fish. Our grill was one of our best wedding gifts, usable at home and portable for camping.
The first night we had steak, and used the leftovers for steak n’ eggs. We have a French press we use while camping for quick and easy coffee.
The second night, my wife made swordfish with just salt, pepper, and lemon as the seasoning. I had not had swordfish before! It was divine on the grill, especially with some roasted summer squash and zucchini.
In the future I can perhaps comment more on establishments within Provincetown; we spent less time in the town than we expected, and more time grilling at our campsite and biking the Dunes. And it’s an amazing place to bike – but not for the faint of heart. Surrounded by ocean on three sides? It must be flat!, one might think… not so. But the paths link the two main beaches to the town, with rolling hills and sand on one side, and a relaxing ride through the woods on the other side.
Lez-Travel Rating:
It’s gay heaven. Every queer person should travel to Provincetown in their life, and be amazed. It’s perhaps the only place in the world (for now…) that gay people outnumber straight people. And it’s magic. To feel for the first time like the majority is a feeling hard to describe.
Lez Travel 