Vermont

For our third anniversary, we wanted to get out of the city: enjoy nature and explore an area with minimal covid-risk, which brought us to the beautiful outdoors of Vermont. We found a lovely airbnb in the town of Ryegate, near the border of New Hampshire.

As a New Englander at the time, all the fuss for nature and mountains is focused on New Hampshire. Let me be clear: Vermont is far superior to New Hampshire. As John Oliver once said, “New Hampshire is just Florida with foliage.”

Vermont is just as beautiful, and though it boasts lower peaks than New Hampshire’s white mountains, you get to avoid the traffic, tourist crowds, and focus on enjoying nature.

In mid-October, it was peak autumn colors. Near Ryegate was a cluster of state parks that we explored, all around the Groton State Forest: Kettle Pond, Big Deer, New Discovery, Ricker Pond, and more. An old rail-trail (Cross Vermont Rail Trail) links many of those state parks. The packed-dirt path leads through the woods with great views of the foliage and the water. We had our dog with us on the trip, so we didn’t bike for long, but I would definitely return and do more of this 30-mile bike path.

We hit up many hiking trails nearby, but our two favorites were Owlshead Mountain Trail (park at New Discovery State Park, pay to enter) and Devil’s Hill.

Owlshead Mountain Trail was a moderate out-and-back trail, up to the 1800ft peak with incredible views. Devil’s Hill, however, was our favorite; lightly trafficked, and free parking at the trailhead. Devil’s Hill is a partial loop, so the dog got fresh sniffs and our legs got a bit of a break with the more roundabout, less steep descent.

And though I harp on Vermont being better than New Hampshire, we did swing through the White Mountains on the drive back to Rhode Island – stopping for a couple of hikes at Franconia Notch State Park. And I stand by my judgment: it was packed. We did the Artist’s Bluff Trail, and though beautiful, it was crowded, and at certain points, we had to wait a while for others to pass before we could continue the climb. We also did Bald Mountain, a short out and back hike that was slightly less crowded and had incredible views as well. But overall, my main memory is how the parking lots were mostly full, the portable toilets were overflowing, and all this on a random Wednesday in October… what is it like on a Saturday?! Listen. Just go to Vermont. If I could do it all again… I’d have spent our last day in Vermont, too. Though we had two full days of hiking in Vermont before heading out, it wasn’t enough!

It’s hard to comment on a Lez-Travel rating on this trip. Because we traveled from our airbnb and only did hikes, even cooking and eating at our Airbnb, we didn’t really explore the surrounding towns or go out much. It was a rural part of Vermont, and the interactions we had with other hikers were friendly, but minimal.

Burlington, VT

For my wife’s birthday, we headed north to what must be the most lesbian-friendly city in the world: Burlington, Vermont. A magical place filled with dogs, hikes, lakes, beer, and – of course – gay women – it was the perfect birthday adventure.

We booked a spot at the city campground – North Beach – which was tucked away just north of downtown along an old rail trail. Dog friendly year-round, the prices were reasonable and the campsites – despite being so close to the city – were decent. You won’t find yourself tucked away in the woods out of view from all of your camping neighbors, but you still have some shade and privacy and a decent amount of space for your car, tent and gear.

The first night, we walked to the downtown area to a nice restaurant with a dog-friendly patio, water bowls for the dogs already set out all over. We ordered cocktails, which were delicious, and definitely felt safe and in good company as dog-moms and as lesbians. We watched the sunset over the lake and enjoyed some music traveling over to us from a venue across the parking lot.

Downtown and the campground were linked by a paved walking trail, which sits along several urban parks on one side and gorgeous Lake Champlain on the others, so every morning we’d begin our day with a nice long walk, plenty of sniffs for the dog. For breakfast we headed to the Skinny Pancake, specializing in, of course, crepes. The food was great, and they had live music! Tonks was not keen on the trumpet.

Rail-trail along Lake Champlain

For my wife’s birthday dinner, we hiked over to a seasonal waterfront restaurant, Spot on the Dock. The food and drinks were okay, but the view, atmosphere and live music were definitely worth it. Not trying to hide its success as a tourist spot, it still had much to offer. Tonks, again, was scared of the trumpet.

The highlight of the trip was definitely getting to sample all of our favorite Vermont beers from the source. Switchback Ale is one of my go-to favorites, and was just as enjoyable from the brewery. The other beers, however, we weren’t as fond of, but we had fun picked out flights and sampling their many brews. At Switchback, dogs are allowed inside and outside. As we were camping and had Tonks with us, we hadn’t been indoors during our entire visit, so we took that opportunity to sit by the windows inside and enjoy some AC!

Exhausted after our big day, Tonks naps at Switchback Brewery

We also visited Zero Gravity, and I love their beer – in New England I snag a mix-pack every time I see one at the liquor store. The brewery is a great spot, with tons of dog-friendly outdoor space, and, they’re open all day! Like, in the morning, too! Kegs and eggs, anyone?

Foam Brewers was another great brewery we tried out. Also with a dog-friendly patio. A smaller brewery than the other two, it sits along a park and by Lake Champlain, easily walkable from our campsite (about 1 mile).

On our way out, we hit up Myers Bagel Bakery which was… the best damn bagel I have ever had in my life. And yes, I’ve been to New York. After we feasted, we waved farewell to beer-loving, bike-loving, outdoorsy, lesbian metropolis of Burlington. It’s the greatest gem of all of New England.

Lez-Travel Rating:

It may not surprise you to see three rainbows here. Burlington is one of the most gay-friendly places I have ever visited. It probably deserves ten rainbows.