Getting lost is the best way to see a city.

I am a planner by nature, to a fault, even. But with our Europe trip immediately following our honeymoon, there was no time to plan in the midst of planning a DIY wedding.

But, it was good for me to break free of my organizer chains and experience the freedom of exploring by getting lost, or pausing to look at our adventure options over an espresso (or a pilsner).

So while winging it on our travels, we discovered a recommended restaurant for ‘authentic Viennese’ that was high-rated among tourists and locals alike. Like fools, though, was how we looked when we arrived.

A table for two, please.

I said in broken German.

Do you have a reservation?

He asked in English, with a bit of sass.

So, we turned out of the crowded entrance and walked down a dark alley, feeling hungry and defeated. We were just outside a large urban park, so the options seemed somewhat limited.

Desperate, we continued towards a restaurant marked with the Pilsner Urquell logo, a beer we enjoyed daily while in Prague. But it wasn’t dark and shabby bar with smokers (as I was assuming for a small bar in an alley) but a small, delightful-looking cafe with one server, one chef, and an open-concept dining room and kitchen.

No tourists here, either.

As we stared nervously around, feeling a bit out of place in this tiny Austrian establishment, the server ran over to greet us with a smile and some German words that went right over my head. He caught on quickly, and guided us to a table in English. It was one of four tables, and the only one without a tiny ‘reserviert’ sign.

Thus began our most enjoyable date night with some of the best food we’ve had in our lives.

One of the few dining rooms that did not offer a menu in English, the server took the time to set down with us and explain all the items we could not understand ourselves. I ordered some sort of fall-themed pumpkin and butternut squash in hand-made gnocci, with some sort of large nut I had never seen or eaten before. Emily ordered goose, which came out in a large hunk of meat taking up the space of a giant plate, and it was tender and succulent despite our previous experiences eating any kind of bird.

My wife was incredibly diligent (and at times embarrassing) throughout our trip to take photographs of every pub and restaurant we entered, and every item of delicious food we consumed. Here, ravenous and thrilled, with every taste bud satisfied, we forgot, and I have no proof of the delights we experienced that night.

To top it off, we spent $60 (USD) on this meal. Two of the best entrees of our lives and three beers a piece… it may not seem a bit deal to some, but for Boston residents, we know that that same meal at home at that type of restaurant would have been closer to $150 at least!

What would our night have been if the first restaurant had not been overflowing? A crowded evening with servers tired of dealing with American tourists (I do not blame them) and overpriced food? Perhaps. Instead we stumbled upon such a delightful place!

Note: be aware of your surroundings when walking in a dark alley. Vienna is safer than other cities I have traveled!

Vienna Lez-Travel Rating

Though this post focuses on just one incredible dining experience, I want to give Vienna the queer-cred it’s due. Vienna was a delight, and a place my wife and I always felt safe. Pride flags flew in many places, and we were far from alone, both in the touristy areas and otherwise.